Why Is My Concrete Sinking? Utah County Causes and Fixes
By Drew Hubbard, owner of Utah Concrete Lifting and Repair in Mapleton, UT. Drew is a licensed General Contractor with 20+ years of construction experience. Updated October 2026.
Quick answer: Concrete in Utah County usually sinks because the soil under it gets wet and moves. Freeze-thaw cycles, clay soils that swell and shrink, bench soils that settle when soaked, and downspouts or sprinklers that send water under the slab all leave empty spaces, and the concrete drops into them. Lifting the slab with polyurethane foam fills those voids, and fixing the drainage is what helps it stay put.
Below I'll walk through each cause, how to tell which one you're dealing with, and what you can do about it yourself before you call anyone.
What actually makes a concrete slab sink?
A driveway, sidewalk, or patio slab is only as solid as the ground under it. Concrete is strong, but it's built to sit on firm, evenly supported soil. When some of that soil washes away, compresses, or shrinks, a gap (we call it a void) opens up under the slab. Eventually the weight of the concrete, plus cars, foot traffic, or snow, pushes that section down into the gap.
That's why you rarely see a whole driveway drop evenly. Usually one panel tilts, one corner dips, or one sidewalk square ends up an inch lower than the next. The low spot is wherever the soil gave out.
Why is Utah County soil so hard on concrete?
In nearly every job I look at, the story comes back to water and soil. Here are the four causes I see most.
Freeze-thaw cycles
Water gets under the slab through cracks, open joints, and the edges. When it freezes, it expands. When it thaws, it leaves loose soil and gaps behind. Utah winters swing above and below freezing over and over, so this happens many times a season, not just once.
Clay soils
Many neighborhoods in Lehi, American Fork, and Saratoga Springs sit on clay-heavy soil. The Utah Geological Survey describes expansive soils as soils with high clay content that swell when wet and shrink when dried (UGS: Problem Soil and Rock Hazards). Every wet spring and dry summer, the ground under your concrete moves up and down a little, and slabs don't like that.
Bench soils
Homes on the Provo and Spanish Fork benches often sit on soils that behave differently. UGS describes collapsible soils as having considerable strength when dry but settling significantly when they get wet, and says they're typically associated with young alluvial fans, debris flows, and loess (UGS). In plain terms: the ground can seem rock-solid for years, then a leaky sprinkler line or a soaked flower bed lets it settle.
Soil washing out from underneath
Water moving under a slab can carry soil with it. UGS calls this piping: underground erosion that forms narrow voids and can remove support from the soil above (UGS). A downspout that empties right at the edge of a sidewalk is a classic way this starts.
UGS also notes that problem soils can damage pavement and create gaps that become tripping hazards. That's exactly the raised sidewalk lip so many homeowners call me about.
Is it the soil or my drainage? Signs to look for
You can't change the soil under your house, but you can usually spot where the water is coming from. Walk around your concrete and look for:
Downspouts that dump next to a slab. Look for washed-out soil or a low spot near the end of the downspout.
Sprinklers that spray the concrete or leak. Wet edges the morning after the sprinklers run are a good clue.
Ground that slopes toward the slab instead of away from it.
Open cracks and joints where water can soak straight down.
Water pooling on the slab, or running toward your house or garage.
A gap opening up between the slab and your foundation, steps, or garage floor.
If you see one of these right next to the low spot, you've probably found your cause.
Can I stop my concrete from sinking?
You can't stop the soil from being what it is, but you can control most of the water, and water is the trigger for almost all of the problems above.
Extend your downspouts so roof water lands well away from your concrete.
Fix leaky or overspraying sprinklers and adjust heads so they water the lawn, not the sidewalk.
Make sure the ground slopes away from your slabs and foundation.
Seal open cracks and joints so snowmelt can't soak in. We also offer crack and joint caulking with a flexible sealant for this.
These steps won't raise a slab that has already dropped, but they make a big difference in how well a lifted slab stays put.
Should I lift or replace sunken concrete?
If the slab is still in one piece, or a few solid pieces, and has simply sunk or tilted, lifting is usually the better value. Foam lifting typically costs 50% to 80% less than replacement. We drill small 3/8-inch holes, inject polyurethane foam that fills the voids and raises the slab, and patch the holes. The foam weighs only about 2 to 4 pounds per cubic foot, so it doesn't overload weak soil, and it's 100% hydrophobic, so water won't wash it out. You can walk on it right away and drive on it after about 4 hours.
If your concrete is crumbling or broken into lots of small pieces, replacement is usually the better choice, and I'll tell you that during the estimate. For a deeper comparison, see Polyjacking vs. Mudjacking in Utah.
Why fix sunken concrete before winter?
Fall is a good time to deal with it. A sunken slab with open joints lets more water underneath, and that water then goes through all those freeze-thaw cycles. A raised sidewalk lip is also harder to see once it's covered in snow, which is when people trip on it.
We can still lift in winter, as long as it's above 40°F and the slab is clear of snow and ice. But on a cold stretch you may wait for a workable day, so it's easier to get on the schedule now.
How much does it cost to fix sunken concrete in Utah County?
Lifting a typical sidewalk costs $300 to $1,200, depending on its length and other factors. A driveway panel typically costs $300 to $800, depending on its size and how much it needs to be lifted. There's no minimum job charge, and a fuel surcharge can apply for remote jobs. Our Utah concrete lifting cost guide has the details.
Our lifting work comes with a three-year warranty: if a slab we raised settles more than 1/4 inch within three years, we'll lift it again (a fuel fee may apply).
Sinking concrete FAQ
Will my concrete keep sinking if I leave it?
It can. Whatever opened the void, usually water, is often still at work, and a tilted slab can direct even more water underneath. Fixing the drainage is the first step either way.
Does lifting fix the soil?
Not by itself. The foam fills voids and compresses loose soil right under the slab, but it doesn't change the soil across your yard. That's why drainage matters.
Will my concrete sink again after it's lifted?
Polyurethane is a long-lasting fix, but lifting doesn't change the soil itself. Good drainage is the best way to keep a slab where it belongs, and our three-year warranty covers re-lifting if a slab we raised settles more than 1/4 inch.
How soon can I use my driveway after lifting?
You can walk on it right away and drive on it after about 4 hours, including cars, trucks, and RVs.
Do you lift concrete in the winter?
Yes, when it's above 40°F and the slab is clear of snow and ice.
More answers are on our concrete lifting FAQ page.
Get an honest look at your sinking concrete
If you've got a sunken driveway, sidewalk, patio, or steps anywhere in Utah County, call or text (385) 398-9886 or chat with us for a free estimate. There's no minimum job charge, and I'll tell you straight what's causing it and whether lifting is the right fix.
Drew Hubbard, Utah Concrete Lifting and Repair
1565 West Park Meadows Drive, Mapleton, UT 84664 · (385) 398-9886
Sources
Utah Geological Survey, Problem Soil and Rock Hazards (expansive soils, collapsible soils, piping and erosion, pavement tripping hazards; checked 2026-10-05): https://geology.utah.gov/hazards/problem-soils/
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